With the long-anticipated arrival of winter rains, the landscape of rural Malta has burst forth in a riot of colour - lush greenery and wildflowers, like a carpet of jewels, spread across the ground, calling the curious to explore its wonders.
Wied ir-Rum, the Valley of the Romans, and neighbouring Rdum ta' Ghar id-Dwieb, the Deer Cliff Cave, possess distinct characters, yet they lie here together, like intertwined works of nature's landscaping mastery. Tucked away in Malta's western reaches, this hidden haven still offers tranquil beauty and hushed echoes of ancient civilizations. In stark contrast to the island's bustling urban sprawl, this is a quiet corner. That's why I come here - in search of a much needed dose of stillness.
Roaming through Wied ir-Rum, I find the air infused with aromas not often encountered on this arid island - the smell of fresh grass mingles with the earthy scent of trees, while the sweet fragrance of ripe fruits and vegetables wafts from nearby fields. Reminders of the fertile bounty that this piece of land offers. I hear the whisper of leaves in a gentle breeze, the serenading voices of birds. Each breath taken here is a celebration of nature's gifts.
Along with enjoying nature, Wied ir-Rum also easily takes me on an imaginative trip to the nation's past. In one of his essays, Maltese archaeologist Keith Buhagiar writes extensively about recent discoveries in this area, underlining the historical and scientific importance of Wied ir-Rum and its surroundings.
I close my eyes for a moment. It's easy to picture this secluded paradise during the height of ancient civilizations. I can imagine a time when the valley and cliffs were adorned with thriving trees, long before the age of shipbuilding reshaped the landscape. Here, prehistoric farmers tilled the fertile soil, tending to herds of goats, sheep, and cows that grazed peacefully on the abundant vegetation - a glimpse into a life harmoniously bound with nature.
I wander atop the surrounding rock faces on the eastern sides of the valley to find a set of the cart ruts, famously mysterious features of the Maltese countryside. No one has been able to fully explain what exactly they represent and how or why they came to be.
Walking down, towards the sea, it's only a few minutes, and the view of Ghar id-Dwieb fully opens before my eyes. A sweeping, crescent-shaped indentation formed by sheer limestone walls. Filled with crystal-clear waters, like liquid sapphire, it makes me want to turn into a seagull and enjoy the bird's-eye view of its mesmerizing waters and cliffs. The sun's rays dance upon the surface, creating a spectacle that sings to adventurous souls. Beneath the waves, a rich tapestry of marine life surely thrives among the steep coastal rocks and mysterious sea caves, promising a world waiting to be discovered.
I sit down and wait for the sun to begin its descent. The sky over the western horizon transforms into a magnificent canvas, splashed with vibrant hues of green, blue, gold, and pink. The cliffs, bathed in the warm glow of twilight, cast long shadows over the shimmering waters below, creating an atmosphere that feels almost ethereal. Here, nature's artistry takes centre stage, and I can't help but feel part of the play.
This whole area - largely untouched by the throngs of tourists - remains a sanctuary for those of us who seek beauty away from the crowded hotspots. It's a destination that calls for intention; one won't just stumble upon it. The small car park, barely accommodating a handful of vehicles, serves as a gateway to this hidden treasure. Those fortunate enough to venture here are rewarded with a profound sense of peace and stillness, a welcome reprieve from the usual tourist trails.
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The article was first published on Medium on February 8, 2025.
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